How to Frame a Partition
No matter where you go in your home, you're surrounded by walls. It's hardly surprising, then, that walls receive a lot of attention from do-it-yourselfers. This fact shows up on the shelves at home-repair stores, which offer a wide array of products that can make wall jobs much easier than you might think.The following article will tell you everything you need to know about repairing walls. Among the topics we'll cover are framing a partition, installing paneling, installing and repairing molding, installing and repairing drywall, repairing cracked plaster, and installing and repairing ceramic wall tile. We'll start at square one, with framing a partition.
How to Frame a Partition
Converting a basement or attached garage into more usable living space requires building a partition wall. Framing a wall is a task better suited for experienced do-it-yourselfers. The components of a partition wall include the top plate; the sole, or floor, plate; and the wall studs. The studs are usually on 16-inch centers, which means that the distance from the center of one stud to the center of the next measures 16 inches. All framing lumber for a project is of the same size, usually 2 X 4s.
The framing described here is for a nonload-bearing partition wall. Because it isn't designed to support the ceiling or the floor above, you need not worry about the roof caving in. Just make the finished wall look as attractive as possible. Remember that minor cosmetic faults in the framing will be covered by drywall or paneling.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Here are the various components of a partition wall. |
In planning a wall, consider all the uses of the room and what furniture or equipment will go into it. Think about the best place for a door. To get an idea of how a new wall will affect existing space, put tape or 2 X 4s on the floor to mark the spot for the proposed new wall. Shift these around until you're satisfied with your plan. To frame a partition:
Step 1: Cut the top plate and sole plate for the wall. Use long lengths of lumber (10-, 12-, or 16-foot lengths) to make the plates all one piece, if possible. Remember that the sole plate doesn't run through a doorway. Mark the top and sole plates for stud locations. The studs may be 16 (recommended) or 24 inches on center.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Lay the top and sole plates side by side to mark them for stud locations. |
Step 2: Snap a chalk line on the floor where the sole plate is to go to guide you as you install it. Nail the sole plate in position.
Step 3: With the sole plate in place, use a long, straight 2 X 4 to position the top plate directly above the sole plate. Place the straightedge against the 2 X 4, and use a level to make it vertically level, or plumb.
Step 4: Install the top plate. If the wall runs across the joists in the ceiling above, nail the top plate to each joist. If the wall runs parallel to the joists and cannot be positioned so that the top plate can be nailed to a joist, install bridging of 2 X 4 between the joists to provide solid nailing for the top plate. Space the bridging pieces on 16-inch centers and nail them to the joists with two nails through each end of each bridging piece.
Step 5: Assemble the studs and top plate on the floor as a unit, which will be raised as an assembly. This allows you to nail through the top plate and straight into the top of each stud. If the studs must vary in length, however, install the top plate, cut each stud to fit, and then toenail each stud in place. Toenailing means driving 16d nails into the side of the stud at about a 45-degree angle so that the nails penetrate the plate. Drive two nails into each stud.
Step 6: Toenail the studs to the sole plate. Openings for doors in the framing must be about 3 inches wider and 1 1/2 inches higher than the actual size of the door. Nail extra 2 X 4s on both sides of the door opening, and nail a header at the top. Then place a short cripple stud between the header and the top plate and nail it in place.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Toenailing means driving a nail into the side of a stud at about a 45-degree angle. |
Step 7: Nail 2 X 4s horizontally between studs at the midpoint of the wall. This blocking may be staggered so the pieces can be end-nailed.
Step 8: Cover the stud partition with paneling or drywall.
The particulars of installing paneling are covered in the next section.
How to Install Paneling
If you want a way to cover up badly deteriorated walls, finish off a basement room, or give any area a new look, consider wall paneling. You can buy plywood paneling that is either finished or ready-to-finish. Or, you can buy hardboard panels that simulate various finishes.You can apply panels directly to the wall studs where you have new construction, but because the panels are thin and not soundproof, it is best to provide a drywall backing. Many building codes require a drywall backing, especially in basements. If you decide to apply paneling directly to the studs, make sure that the studs are free of high or low spots. To install paneling on existing walls:
Step 1: Remove the molding and trim and check for high or low spots by moving a long, straight board against the wall and watching for any gaps as you draw it along.
Step 2: Build up any low spots with drywall joint compound, and sand down any high spots. Note: If the walls are cracked or very uneven, attach paneling to furring strips. Masonry walls must always be furred and waterproofed. (Instructions on installing furring strips are in the next section.)
Step 3: Stack the panels in the room to be paneled with strips of boards between each one. Leave them there for at least 48 hours before installing them to allow the panels to adjust to the moisture content of the room.
Step 4: Once the panels are stabilized, lean them against the walls, matching the wood graining in the most pleasing manner. When you have the panels arranged the way you want them, number the panels on the back side.
Step 5: As necessary, cut the panels to fit their position on the wall. If you are using trim molding, the fit at the floor and ceiling doesn't have to be as tight as for panels without trim molding. Also, make sure that panels at room corners are cut to fit well, as most corners aren't perfectly plumb (vertically level).
 Double-fur uneven walls with a second layer of horizontal strips. Shim as necessary to smooth the grid. |
 Images © Publications International, Ltd. To install furring on relatively smooth walls, put up vertical strips, spaced 16 inches apart, then cut short horizontals to fit at top and bottom. |
Step 7: To cut paneling out for a door or window, use a large sheet of paper to make a pattern. Use this pattern to transfer the marks to the panel. Tape the paper in place, press it against the door or window frame, mark it with a pencil, and use scissors to cut it to size.
Step 8: To make cutouts for electrical outlets or switches, trace the outline of the switch or outlet box on the panel and drill pilot holes at opposite corners. Then use a keyhole saw to connect the corners with a saw cut.
Step 9: Finally, apply finish molding as described earlier in this chapter. Be sure to countersink the nails and fill the holes with matching wood putty.
Installing Fur Strips
Furring strips are 1 X 2s or 1 X 3s that are nailed or glued to the wall, with pieces of cedar shingle under them to even up low spots. Use 1 X 3s because they provide a better bearing surface and are easy to install.
The amount of furring depends on how uneven your walls are. If they're smooth, with a variation of only 1/2 inch or so between high and low spots, you need only put up vertical strips, nailing or gluing them over studs and compensating for low spots by wedging shingles under the strips. Then cut short horizontal pieces to fit between them at floor and ceiling level.
If your walls are very uneven, you may need to double-fur them. With double-furring, you create a grid with two layers of strips. Start by nailing up vertical strips, spaced 16 inches on center from floor to ceiling. Even these up as best you can with shims and note any problem spots. Next, install horizontal strips, spaced 16 inches from center to center. Nail these to the vertical strips, further shimming as necessary to smooth the grid.
At electrical wall switches and outlets, you'll need to compensate for the increased thickness of the wall. Remove the cover plates and reset the electrical boxes out the necessary distance. Caution: Turn off the electrical power to the circuits you are working on before removing the cover plates.
Drywall is another popular type of wall surface. The ins and outs of installing and repairing drywall are outlined in the following section.
How to Install Drywall
Installing drywall can be easy, but taping the joints between panels requires some practice. Some do-it-yourselfers install the drywall themselves, then call an experienced drywall taper to finish the job.Although it's easy to figure how much drywall to buy (just compute the square footage of the walls and ceiling), it takes some planning to end up with as few joints as possible. The standard-size sheets for walls measure 4 X 8 feet. They are usually installed with the long side running from floor to ceiling, but if you can eliminate a joint by placing them horizontally, do so. All drywall sheets are 4 feet wide, but many building-material outlets offer 10-foot and even 12-foot lengths. The most popular thicknesses of drywall are 1/2 inch (walls) and 5/8 inch (ceilings), but check your local building code for requirements.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Use T-braces to install drywall on a new ceiling. |
Each outside corner requires one metal cornerbead. Drywall tape is used for inside corners. Note: many drywallers now use drywall screws instead of nails; buy the same quantity of screws as you would nails, and consult your dealer on the length of screws necessary; it varies with the thickness of drywall. These are installed with a drill, preferably one with a drywall setting, which allows the drill to "ratchet" or slip when it senses the screw is fully seated. This prevents "popped" screw heads. Ask your dealer to show you such a drill if you don't already have one.
Placing Drywall
To install drywall on the ceiling and walls of a framed room, you'll probably need an assistant, especially for the ceiling. Here's how to cut and install panels:
Step 1: Construct a pair of T-braces from 2 X 4s about an inch longer than the distance from floor to ceiling. Nail 2 X 4s about 3 feet long to one end of each longer 2 X 4 to form the Ts. Alternately, adjustable T-braces can be rented.
Step 2: Cut drywall panels to size. Use a sharp utility knife along a straightedge to cut drywall. After you make the cut through the face paper, place the board over a length of 2 X 4 laid flat on the floor, or some other type of support, and snap the scored section down. The gypsum core will break along the line you cut. Then turn the panel over, cut the paper on the other side, and smooth the rough edges with very coarse sandpaper on a sanding block.
Step 3: Install drywall panels on the ceiling. If possible, try to span the entire width with a single sheet of wallboard to reduce the number of joints. Position and wedge the T-braces against the drywall sheet to hold it in place until you finish nailing it.
Step 4: Drive nails at 6-inch intervals into all the joists covered by the sheet. Start in the center of the drywall panel and work out. Give each nail an extra hammer blow to dimple the surface slightly without breaking the face paper.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. After you drive each nail in, give it an extra blow to dimple the surface without breaking the drywall face paper. |
Step 5: When the ceiling is finished, cut and install wall panels. Carefully measure for any cutouts in the drywall, including electrical outlets, switches, or light fixtures. To make cutouts, draw a pattern of the cutout on the wallboard, drill a hole on the pattern line, and then use a keyhole saw to follow the pattern.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. It is not necessary to dimple the nails of outside cornerbead, because the surface will be covered with drywall putty. |
Step 6: Space the nails 6 inches apart along studs, but start nailing 4 inches from the ceiling. Butt the wall panels against the ceiling sheets. Dimple all nails. Nail metal outside cornerbeads to cover any outside corners.
Taping Drywall
The next step in installing drywall is covering the nails and joints, called taping.
Step 1: Use a 5-inch-wide drywall taping knife to spread joint compound into the slight recess created by the tapered edges of the drywall sheets. Smooth the compound until it is even with the rest of the board surface.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Taping a joint means applying joint compound followed by a strip of drywall tape, then two thin coats of joint compound. |
Step 2: Center the drywall tape over the joint and press it firmly into the compound. Because some compound will squeeze out, make sure that there is still a good bed underneath. When you get the tape embedded into the compound all along the joint, smooth it with the taping knife. At the same time, fill all the nail dimples with compound.
Step 3: When the compound is completely dry (usually 24 hours later) apply a very thin second coat of compound that extends out a few inches to either side of the first coat. After the second coat dries completely, apply a third coat, this time with a 10-inch-wide taping knife, extending the compound about 6 inches to either side. When the third coat is dry, feather all the edges with a sanding block covered with medium-grit sandpaper.
To tape inside corners, including the spots where the walls and ceiling meet, cut the tape to length and fold it in half. After laying the bed of compound, press the folded tape into the compound and feather the compound out at least 1 1/2 inches to each side. The corners require three coats, and the last coat should extend about 8 inches to each side. Sanding is required here, too.
To finish the outside corners, install a metal corner (from your building-supply store), then apply three coats of compound that taper up to the bead. The last coat should extend the compound on each wall to about eight inches wide. Sand as with other drywall joints.
Let the walls dry for up to five days, following the recommendations of the joint compound manufacturer. Give the surface of the drywall a coat of primer made for paint or wallpaper. When the primer is dry, sand the drywall surface lightly with fine-grit sandpaper on a sanding block. Be sure to sand between each additional coat of paint with fine-grit sandpaper. New drywall should receive at least three coats: a sealer, primer, and finish coat.
Even if you do an expert job of installing drywall, the surface is bound to suffer from wear and tear. In the next section, we'll show you how to fix drywall problems, including popped nails and holes.
How to Repair Drywall
The most common types of drywall issues are popped nails and holes. In this section, we'll show you how to solve both of those problems.Inevitably, there is shrinking or warping in the framing behind the drywall. As the wood studs age and shrink, nails loosen and pop out of the wood, producing an unsightly bump or hole in the surface.
No matter how many times you drive the nails back in, the problem is likely to recur, so it's better to fix it permanently the first time around. Here's how:
Step 1: Redrive the popped nails. If the nails are sticking out far enough to get a claw of hammer around them, pull them out first. To redrive them, hold the nail set over the nail head and hammer nail as far as you can into stud. The nail head will punch through the drywall's outside layer of paper and into the drywall itself.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Nail pops in drywall are easy to eliminate. First drive the popped nail with a nail set as far as possible into the stud. The drive another nail about 2 inches above or below it. |
Step 2: To make sure the nail stays in place (and to take pressure off it), drive another drywall nail through the wallboard and into the stud about 2 inches above or below the old nail. Pound the nail flush with wall and then give it one more light hammer whack to "dimple" drywall surface around the nail head.
Step 3: Using the putty knife, cover the new nail head and fill hole over old one with spackling compound.
Step 4: Let it dry, then lightly sand area. Since the spackling compound shrinks as it dries, you may need to repeat process once or twice more. Touch up the patches with paint or primer.
Drywall Holes
Tough as it is, drywall can withstand only limited abuse. A door flung open with too much force can produce a doorknob-size hole in the wall. This kind of damage looks bad, but even large holes are easy to fix. The easiest way is to purchase a drywall repair kit. Measure the hole, and visit your local hardware store or home improvement center for a kit. There are various sizes and types for different applications. For example, a drywall patch for a ceiling is thicker than one for a wall. Before you use the kit, remove any loose paper or plaster around the edges of the hole. Then apply drywall patch, following the manufacturer's instructions.
Small drywall holes: You don't need a kit to make a repair to a small drywall hole. Simply follow these directions:
Step 1: Prepare a tin can lid that is at least 11/2 inches more in diameter than hole in drywall for backing piece. Use a keyhole saw to cut out a narrow horizontal slit in wall on each side of the hole. The measurement of hole plus both narrow slits should equal the diameter of the lid so that you can insert the lid sideways into the hole.
Step 2: Use an awl to punch two holes in the center of lid. Thread a 12-inch piece of wire or string through the holes.
Step 3: Holding ends of the wire, slide the lid through the slit. Still holding the wire, pull the lid toward you until it's flat against the inside of wall. To hold it in place, set the stick of scrap wood over the hole on the outside of wall and twist the wire tightly over the stick. The can lid should be held firmly against the inside of the wall.
Step 4: Use a putty knife to apply a premixed drywall patching compound over the patch following the manufacturer's instructions. (Don't use a spackling compound because it shrinks as it dries.) You can also mix plaster of paris with water to make a thick paste. Pack the compound or plaster into the hole against the backing and behind the stick. Keep the compound inside the hole, cover the backing, and fill the slits, but don't spread it on the wall surface. Leave the patch slightly low, and don't try to level it. Let the patch dry until it turns bright white, typically at least 24 hours. When it's dry, cut the string or wire and remove the stick.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Cut slits from the sides of the hole, then thread a wire through a tin can lid and slide it in. Pull the lid flat on the inside of the wall, and hold it in place with a stick. |
Step 5: To finish the patch, fill it completely with more plaster of paris or drywall patching compound to make the patch level with the wall surface. Let it dry, lightly sand the area, prime, and paint.
Large drywall holes: Sometimes a wall can get a large hole or a section can be damaged by water or other causes. Here's how to fix it without a drywall repair kit:
Step 1: Cut a scrap piece of drywall with a utility knife into a square or rectangle. The scrap piece should be a little bigger than the hole or damaged area. If you don't have a piece of drywall, purchase a drywall patch from a hardware store. Set the patch against the damaged area, and lightly trace around it with pencil. Cut out the outlined area with a keyhole saw. Keep the saw cut on inside of the traced line so the hole in the drywall will be exactly the same size as the patch.
Step 2: To hold the wallboard patch in place, install the small board about 6 inches longer than the long dimension of hole. Put the board into the hole, center it horizontally, and hold it firmly against the inside of wallboard. To help keep it there, fasten the ends of board to the drywall with flathead screws driven through the wall at the sides of hole; countersink the screws below the surface of the drywall.
Step 3: Use spackling compound or wallboard joint compound as a glue to hold the patch in place. Spread the compound on the back of the drywall patch and around edges. Set the patch into the hole and adjust it so it's exactly even with surrounding wall. Hold it in place until the compound starts to set. Let the compound dry at least overnight.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Secure a backing board on the inside of the wall to brace the patch; then coat the edges of the patch with spackling compound and set it into place in the hole. |
Step 4: Once the compound is dry, fill the patch outline and cover the exposed screw heads with spackling or joint compound. Let it dry, lightly sand the area, prime, and paint.
Like drywall, plaster can be problematic. In the next section, we'll tell you how to repair the most common plaster occurrence: cracks.
How to Repair Cracked Plaster
Older homes often have lath-and-plaster walls. Plaster is both a durable and good-looking surface, but there is one drawback: Plaster inevitably develops cracks.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. To fill a large plaster crack, remove the loose plaster, then wet the crack and pack in plaster of paris to its full depth. Smooth the surface with a scraper. |
Latex paint will hide hairline cracks in plaster, at least temporarily. The coverup, though, may last only a few hours or a few months. Small plaster cracks have an annoying way of showing up again and again. It may be smarter to enlarge them and fix them properly once and for all.
Making a small flaw bigger may sound like reverse logic, but it's easier to fix big cracks in plaster than small ones. Use plaster of paris, which doesn't shrink as it dries, or purchase premixed plaster repair compound. Repairing large plaster cracks involves these steps:
Step 1: Cut away the loose plaster with a utility knife. Turn the knife to make the opening wider and more clean-lined. Remove the debris while preserving the structural integrity of the surface around it. Clean away the loose plaster and dust with vacuum cleaner.
Step 2: Mix a thick paste of plaster of paris and water, and wet the crack thoroughly with a paintbrush dipped in water. Pack plaster of paris (or repair compound) into the wet crack to its full depth, and smooth the surface with a scraper or trowel. Let the filled crack dry for at least 24 hours.
Step 3: Lightly sand the patch when the plaster is dry with medium-or fine-grade sandpaper wrapped around a wood block. If the crack was wide, replaster it at least once more to make the surface smooth, rewetting the plastered area each time. Let the area dry for at least 24 hours after the final plastering.
Step 4: Lightly sand the patch again, and prime it with a thinned coat of paint or primer. When the primer is dry, paint the entire wall.
Whether your walls are made of plaster or drywall, they generally are adorned with moldings. So the next section -- focusing on replacing moldings -- is likely to be of interest.
How to Replace a Molding
Because baseboards are down at floor level where they can be struck by all sorts of objects, they are the most easily damaged moldings. The following procedures guide you on how to replace baseboard molding, but you can apply the same techniques to other types of moldings as well.
Removing a Molding
The first task in replacing molding is to remove the old molding. Here's how:
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. |
Step 1: Remove any shoe molding, the quarter-round piece that fits against both the baseboard and the floor. Because it's nailed to the baseboard, or subfloor, apply gentle prying pressure with a putty knife at one end of the shoe molding to get it started. Then, use a short pry bar and a wood block for leverage. Once started, the shoe molding should come up easily.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. To remove a baseboard, pry it with a pry bar, then use a wedge. |
Step 2: Pry off the damaged baseboard. Start at one end, inserting a small, flat pry bar between the baseboard and the wall. (If the seam between the baseboard and wall has been painted or caulked, carefully cut the seam with a utility knife before removing the baseboard.) Pry gently, and move farther down the molding whenever you can, slipping small cedar shingle wedges into the gaps. Work all the way along the baseboard, prying and wedging. Then work back between the wedges, tapping the wedges in deeper as the baseboard comes out further. Continue until the molding comes off.
Step 3: Check to see if any nails have been pulled through either the shoe molding or the baseboard. If so, pull out the nails completely.
Using a Miter Box
If the old baseboard came off intact, you can use it as a pattern for cutting the new one. If part of it is missing or if it is badly damaged, however, you will have to cut the new moldings to fit without the aid of a pattern. You will need a miter box to cut the moldings. An inexpensive wooden or plastic miter box is adequate for this work. Slots in the box allow you to cut molding at 45-degree angles. Use a backsaw, a fine-toothed blade in a hacksaw, or an electric combination (chop) saw to do the sawing. Before sawing, place the molding you are about to cut next to the molding against which it will rest to make certain that the cut you plan to make is the correct one. The following steps instruct you on how to make two 45-degree cuts, joining two pieces of molding so they form a right angle:
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. A miter box and backsaw can be used to make 45-degree cuts. |
Step 1: Place a length of molding in the miter box, making sure that the lip of the miter box presses against the edge of a table or bench so that you can keep it steady.
Step 2: Hold the molding tightly against the side of the miter box to prevent it from slipping as you saw a 45-degree cut at one end.
Step 3: Repeat the procedure for the other length of molding. The two lengths should form a perfect right angle.
Installing Molding
When you finish all the mitered joints, you are ready to install the new baseboard molding and reinstall the shoe molding.
Step 1: Fit all the pieces together before nailing to make sure that you cut them correctly.
Step 2: Locate the wall studs. If you're replacing a molding, they'll be at the points where the old one was nailed. If the molding is brand-new, locate the wall studs.
Step 3: Nail the baseboard in place with finishing nails, then use a nail set to drive the nail heads below the surface of the molding.
Step 4: Install the shoe molding with finishing nails as well. Shoe molding, however, must be nailed to the floor and not to the baseboard. Drive the nail heads below the surface of the shoe molding with a nail set.
Step 5: Paint or stain the moldings to match your walls.
In the next section of this article, we'll move from moldings to ceramic tile, a common wall surface in bathrooms.
How to Install Ceramic Wall Tile
Installing ceramic wall tile is easy with modern fast-setting mastics, sealants and grout. Whatever style or size you choose to install, the principles are the same.Before you begin, you'll need a hammer, chalk line, level, saber saw with carbide blade (helpful but not necessary), rubber gloves, tile mastic, tile grout sealer, tiles, edging cap and two outside corner edge caps for ceramic tile, and a paint stirring stick or old toothbrush to use for forcing grout deeply into the tile joints. You can also rent or buy a grooved trowel, tile nippers, tile cutter, and rubber squeegee.
Inspect the walls. They must be smooth and free of loose plaster, dust, or peeling paint. Read the mastic instructions; on new plaster or unfinished drywall, a primer may be necessary. To install ceramic tile:
Step 1: Start at the back wall (the wall opposite the faucet end of the tub). Using a level, draw a vertical line from the outside edge of the tub up as high as you want the tile on the wall. Check the tub for level: If one side is higher or lower by more than 1/8 inch, adjust the starter row of tiles.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Use a level to draw a vertical line from the outside edge of the tub to mark the end of the tiles. |
Step 2: Temporarily place the starter row of tiles (start with an edge cap tile) along the top edge of the tub. The tile next to the corner wall will have to be cut to fit. Adjust the run slightly so that not less than half a tile will have to be cut. Remove the tile.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Temporarily place the starter row to mark the end pieces for cutting. |
Step 3: Spread as much mastic along the wall of the tub as you'll be able to cover with tiles in a half hour. As you progress, spread more mastic as needed.
Step 4: Place the first row of tiles in position. Push each tile with a slight twisting motion to spread the mastic, but don't slide the tile around or the mastic will rise in the grout line. Leave a 1/8-inch gap between the tub and the first row of tiles. Plastic tile spacers are available at tile and hardware stores.
Step 5: Put the edge cap and first two tiles of the next row in place. Then put the edge cap and first tile of the third row in place. You now have the beginning of a stair-step pattern.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Apply mastic, then place the tiles in a stair-step pattern. |
Step 6: Continue placing tiles in a stair-step pattern until all except the top row of cap tiles are in place. Finish by placing the row of cap tiles along the top of the tiled area, starting with an outside corner cap.
Step 7: Place the tiles on the long wall in the same stair-step fashion. Start by placing a row temporarily along the top of the tub to determine how much must be trimmed off the tile. Spread the mastic as you did for the first wall, and install a row of tiles along the edge of the tub. Then place the tiles of the next two rows to start a stair-step pattern. Fill in the rest of the wall, and finish the top with a row of cap tiles.
Step 8: The procedure for the faucet wall is the same as it is for the other two walls. Use a saber saw equipped with a carbide blade or use tile nippers to cut the openings for the spout, faucets, and shower arm. The openings don't have to be exact, because the chrome trim rings (escutcheons) will cover minor imperfections.
Step 9: Clean up any excess mastic and clean the tools. Allow the mastic at least 24 hours to dry thoroughly.
Grouting Ceramic Wall Tile
Grout can be applied to the ceramic once the mastic is completely dry. To grout ceramic tiles:
Step 1: Mix the grout to a creamy consistency and set it aside. Wet the tiles so that they do not remove moisture from the grout. Wear gloves and spread grout evenly over half of the back wall, then use a rubber squeegee to work the grout well into the tile. Wipe the excess away with a wet sponge.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Spread grout evenly over the wall using a rubber squeegee to work the grout into the areas between the tiles. |
Step 2: Use a blunt stick to force the grout deep into the tile joints. Remove the excess grout with a sponge and continue in the same manner for the remaining area.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. |
Step 3: Allow the grout to dry overnight. Polish off the thin film of grout that has dried on the tile. Run a bead of tub caulk around the 1/8-inch gap between the tub and the first row of tiles. If you have tiled around a window, be sure to caulk it carefully.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Run a bead of caulk between the tub and first row of tiles. |
Step 4: Apply a grout sealer according to the manufacturer's directions.
What happens if the ceramic wall tile you've installed -- or someone else has installed -- gets damaged? Read the next section to find out.
How to Repair Ceramic Wall Tile
Ceramic wall tile is very durable, but it can eventually show signs of wear. Tiles crack or loosen, and the grout between tiles wears down and crumbles. These are more than simple cosmetic problems, because unless you repair the damage, water can seep behind the tiles and cause more serious trouble. To keep the problem from getting worse, make the repairs as soon as you can. In this section, we'll tell you how to replace, regrout, and recaulk ceramic tile.The hardest part of replacement is finding a tile to match the broken one. If you can't find a new tile that matches, try salvage yards for an old tile. To replace a tile:
Step 1: Remove the old tile. To do so, put a piece of masking tape at the center of the tile. Then, wearing safety goggles, drill a hole into the taped spot with an electric drill and a carbide bit. Peel off the tape and score an X across the tile with a glass cutter. Then break up the tile with a cold chisel and hammer and remove the pieces.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Remove a damaged ceramic tile by drilling a hole in the center and cutting it with a glass cutter. Chisel out the pieces. |
Step 2: Use a scraper or a chisel to remove old adhesive and grout from the wall where the old tile was. Make sure there's no loose grout around the opening.
Step 3: Spread ceramic mastic on the back of the new tile with a putty knife or a notched spreader, leaving the tile edges clean.
Step 4: Carefully set the new tile into the opening on the wall. Press the tile in firmly, moving it slightly from side to side to distribute the mastic, until it's flush with the surrounding tile surface. The space around the tile should be even, and the tile should be perfectly aligned. Tape the tile in place with masking tape or adhesive tape. Let the mastic cure as directed by the manufacturer.
Step 5: Remove the tape holding the tile in place. Wear rubber gloves as you mix ceramic tile grout to fill the joints around the tile, following the manufacturer's instructions. Use a damp sponge to apply the grout all around the new tile, filling the gaps completely.
Step 6: Let the grout set for 15 minutes, then wipe the wall with a clean damp sponge or towel to remove any excess grout. Be careful not to disturb the grout around the new tile. After removing the excess, let the grout dry completely -- at least 12 hours. Do not let the tile get wet during this drying period.
Step 7: Once the grout is dry, rub the tile firmly with a damp towel to remove any remaining grout from the wall.
Loose ceramic tiles can be removed and then reattached with the same procedure. Scrape out the old grout around the loose tile with the corner of a putty knife, and carefully pry out the tile. If it cracks, it will have to be replaced by a new one, as explained above. You can locate loose tiles by tapping across the wall with the handle of the putty knife.
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Regrouting Ceramic Wall Tile
Crumbling grout should be replaced as soon as possible to prevent mildew and water damage. To regrout tile:
Step 1: Scrub the tile thoroughly with a strong household cleaner. Rinse well. If the old grout is mildewed, you must remove the mildew before you regrout. Scrub the tile joints with a toothbrush dipped in chlorine bleach, then rinse the wall thoroughly.
Step 2: Remove all the crumbling grout you can with the edge of a putty knife, then vacuum.
Step 3: Rinse the wall to make sure it's absolutely clean, but don't dry it. It should be damp when the new grout is applied.
Step 4: Wearing rubber gloves, mix the ceramic tile grout according to the manufacturer's instructions. Apply the grout with a damp sponge, wiping it firmly in the wall areas that need grouting to fill the joints. Smooth the newly grouted joints with a clean damp sponge. As necessary, add more grout and smooth it again, filling the tile joints completely.
Step 5: Let the grout dry for at least 12 hours. Don't let the wall get wet during this period. Then scrub the wall firmly with a clean, dry towel to remove any grout that's left on the tiles.
Step 6: To protect the new grout, seal the tile joints with a silicone tile grout liquid or spray.
Recaulking Fixtures
Because tubs and sinks are used practically every day, caulking between the fixture and the wall often cracks or pulls loose. When this happens, water seeps into the opening and damages the joint and the surrounding wall. Use silicone caulk to make the repair.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Cut a new tube of caulk at an angle for better application. |
Step 1: Use a putty knife or a utility knife to remove all the old caulk from the joint.
Step 2: Clean the joint thoroughly with a strong household cleaner. If the joint is mildewed, scrub it out with chlorine bleach. Dry the joint thoroughly with a clean rag wrapped over the blade of a putty knife.
Step 3: Apply silicone caulk to the joint. Cut the nozzle of a caulk tube at an angle, so that the opening is a little larger than the open joint. If you're caulking several joints, start with the smallest joint and work up, recutting the nozzle of the tube as necessary for the larger joints.
 Image © Publications International, Ltd. Squeeze caulk evenly to waterproof a joint between tile and a tub or a sink. |
Step 4: Let the new caulk dry for several hours. Don't let it get wet during the drying period. Let the caulk cure completely (see manufacturer's instructions) before using the fixture.
As you've seen in this article, maintaining the walls in your home takes considerable effort. But if you follow the directions we've put forth, you'll be able to do anything from installing drywall to framing a partition. Best of all, it should add up to big savings because you won't have to call a professional.
